We Ask 7 Upstate Bartenders If Non-Alc Cocktails Are Here To Stay. They’re All In. (Just Don’t Call Them Mocktails.)

Jan 13

Since Seedlip burst onto the scene in 2015 as the first non-alcoholic botanical spirit (the alcohol is removed during distillation), the industry has seen the growth of brewed, fortified, fermented and distilled alternatives capable of delivering the complexity and mouthfeel of alcohol, or standing capably on their own.
Interest in drinking less, but not necessarily quitting, has given us new terms like sober curious (for part-time abstinence,) Cali-sober (when cutting out booze, but not CBD) and zebra-striping (alternating between alcoholic and non-alcoholic drinks.)

What do bartenders really think about non-alc cocktails? Turns out, they’re all in.

Words: Susie Davidson Powell
Photos: SDP + Provided

The drinks industry is meeting consumer demand where it is: Kombuchas and house-made vinegar-and-fruit-based shrubs are in, as are zero-proof spirits for sippable drinks without hangovers or negative side effects of booze. Lower-ABV spritzes are fueling the renewed interest in vermouth, sherry and amari, while the RTD (ready to drink) non-alcoholic sector continues to innovate with mood-enhancing adaptogenics, nootropics and even GABA-spirits.

What was once a rarity to see on upstate drink menus is now available everywhere. But, not all non-alc menus are equal. Tonic water with angostura bitters will always beat out hastily mixed, juice-heavy sweet drinks, so we’re taking the industry pulse with a bartender's perspective. (Just don’t call them mocktails; these are simply cocktails without booze.)

Kat Dunn, Owner-bartender, Padrona, Hudson
“Our drinks menu is divided into full proof, low-ABV and zero-proof. I take a great deal of pride in making guests a drink that isn’t just juice and soda water. To me, it doesn’t matter whether someone has chosen to be sober-curious or is no longer allowed to drink. Someone said to me, "This is the first time I've been able to feel comfortable sitting at a bar since I stopped drinking.” And I almost started to cry, actually, because, like, they said “this tastes like a cocktail – if you didn't tell me that this wasn't an alcoholic drink, I almost wouldn't believe you. Like, it tasted crafted enough to be booze. That's exactly what is important. I joke saying we're in the business of getting people drunk, but that's not it. It really is about getting someone what they want to have. And, oftentimes now, people have to drive. So knowing you're ordering a low ABV drink is important. You need to know your body and know what you can have at that moment. I think it's important to give that information, but I also think it's important to get people what they need.”

Sha Bhatti, Beverage Director, Morrissey’s at The Adelphi Hotel, Saratoga Springs

“I’m following the rise in non-alcoholic, functional beverages — using zero-proof spirits is just the start. I see drinks featuring adaptogens, nootropics, CBD, and botanicals being anchor items on bar menus. Global cross-pollination is huge now too. The way we can now communicate with bartenders all around the world is amazing and I see a lot of collaborations happening between bars across the country and our planet as a whole. It’s a very exciting time for the bar scene; we are living in the great cocktail renaissance right now.”

Zach Wolfgramm, Kindred, Saratoga Springs

“With a decline in drinking you have to really elevate that mocktail menu. I find myself going through dry spells quite frequently, so I really do try and bring zero proof options that are going to make people feel like they’re not missing out on a craft experience. We utilize decalcoholized wines, zero proof spirits, and quality ingredients to ensure that if you are getting a mocktail you don’t have to have a glass of juice set in front of you.”

Anton Kinloch, Owner-mixologist, Lone Wolf, Kingston

“I believe that bars will always be around, we’re a third space that is not work or home where you can unwind. Unlike coffee shops where you know what you’re getting and you can sit quietly without conversing with others, bars are places you deliberately go to converse and be communal with others. While some may lean into edible and THC products, there will always be a demand for human interaction on a level that cannot be replicated otherwise. I hope that we see a rise in listening bars, a genre that is overlooked presently but is making a rise in major cities. In the end, I think bar programs will merely shift to offer more low alc and N/A options for the sober curious and that’s not necessarily a bad thing.”

Trudy Steier, Beverage Director, Savoy Taproom + Copper Crow, Albany

“I think it’s great that every place seems to have N/A options now and that they’re here to stay. We have some bespoke options at both places and I love the Lyre’s Amalfi N/A canned spritz. N/A aperitifs and spirits are springing up everywhere, but they can have very short shelf lives, so the Lyre’s is a great cost effective option without sacrificing quality. I’m a spritz girl so I make sure we have one on every menu because they’re an easy way to do low ABV as well. Who doesn’t love bubbles?”

Brent Hunter, 353, Troy

“We do have a separate mocktail menu and a lot of staff effort goes into making sure our N/A friends get a craft cocktail experience. Bars are a social gathering place and we want all to be included. We try to work with a lot of the N/A spirits that are out there, but it can be tricky because something that’s categorized as a London dry gin doesn’t always quite translate. So we might use syrups or coffee as options. We put as much effort into those as we do our regular cocktails on the list.”

Yaza Goldstein, Sorry Charlie, Kingston

“I love bars and drinking culture, but that doesn’t always mean it has to be alcohol-focused. We have a whole section of our menu called “nonnies” which are N/A drinks. I love that we offer a wide range of different kinds of N/A drinks, not just an NA beer. Just like finding the right cocktail for a person– if they like it spirit-forward or more citrusy. So I like that we can offer the same thing in N/A options. We have bitter options, sour options, fruity and frozen! Choice is nice and I think it adds to our whole “we-have-something-for-everybody” vibe!”