INTEL: FROM PECK’S ARCADE TO VEGAN MYBACON, CHEF NICK RUSCITTO ENTERS HIS PIZZA ERA.
Six years after leaving Peck’s Arcade (Troy) during the pandemic, former executive chef Nick Ruscitto is entering the mobile world of pizza pop ups.
We asked Chef Nick about his plans for dough and beyond.
— SDP
From executive chef to pizzaiolo, chef Nick Ruscitto is betting on mobile pie with a new rig + new brand, Argos Pizza.
Story: Susie Davidson Powell
Photo: Provided.
SDP: It feels as if so many celebrated chefs have made the switch from fine dining to artisanal pizza. NYC chef Wylie Dufresne closed wd-50 to start Stretch Pizza, and chefs Julian Geldmacher and Jake Serebnick left Eleven Madison Park to found Ceres. After Pecks Arcade you consulted with ecovative’s MyFOREST Food in Green Island on R&D for their plant-based bacon alternative, MyBacon. What brings you to mobile pizza?
NR: I’ve been on the pizza quest for a long time, always tinkering with dough and knowing that when I got back to working with food and cooking for people more seriously, pizza was going to be the backbone of it. This year I had the opportunity to work full-time at my family’s greenhouse. It’s very hard work, but it’s seasonal, so pizza felt like a really good way to keep cooking for people during the off-season.
SDP: What’s your style of pizza? And what is that behemoth of a pizza oven?
NR: I’m still pretty early on, so I’m definitely still developing my style, and I have a feeling the tinkering is never going to end. The goal is always just to make something really tasty, start with good ingredients, and have some fun with the flavors.
I did a lot of research and talked with friends who already had mobile ovens. It’s wood fired and I ended up choosing Maine Oven Craft because it had a lot of features the others didn’t, so it felt like the best fit for what I wanted to do. The oven itself rotates 360° on the trailer and there is a sliding rack storage system for for wood and tools.
As for pizza style—I’ll use the oven for what it’s for, so I guess you would call it a neo-Napolitan. Fast bakes and charred spots.
SDP: Is there any backstory to the name?
I’d had a running list of names written down for a couple of years. I’m pretty sure I first heard Argos on a history podcast I like, and being a dog guy, the connection stuck with me. My friend Rebecca Matt did the branding around it, and I think she did an awesome job.
[Ed. note: Argos is the legendary, faithful hunting dog of Odysseus from Homer's ancient Greek epic poem, the Argos.]
SDP: Where can people find you?
Right now I’ve been booking a lot of private events, which has been really fun because pizza is only one part of what I get to cook. I’ve been doing charred vegetable dishes, salads, roasted meats, and other things out of the oven too. I try to customize the menu around the customer and the event. I also have some pop-ups and collaborations lined up for October, and I’ll be posting where I’ll be on Instagram at @eatargospizza
Thanks, Nick. Congrats + keep us posted on your upcoming collabs.