SONIC DISH: CHEF RONNIE SOLEVO x D.J. LATE NITE PALACE
“If this dish were a track, what would it sound like?”
Chef-restaurateur Ronnie Solevo has been an essential part of the Saratoga dining scene since the family-run Solevo Kitchen & Bar opened in 2018 with fresh pasta, Calabrian family recipes + old-school Italian style. We paired Chef Ronnie with fellow Italian-American D.J. Late Nite Palace (Patrick Cannizzaro) known for his unique sound influenced by jazz and touching on the deep, minimal + hypnotic aspects of electronic music.
We asked, “If this dish were a track, what would it sound like?”
Photos: Provided
Chef, what’s the dish?
The Dish: Zuppa di Cozze!
Ingredients: Mussels, Calabrian chili sausage, Peroni beer broth, shallots, garlic, whole grain mustard, cream.
The backstory/inspiration: Solevo Kitchen is an homage to my heritage: Immigrant grandparents from Campania, Italy who settled in New Haven, CT. The best cooking I do honors not only my Italian roots, but the even more regionally specific Italian-American cooking of the New England Shoreline. That is where this dish was born. Plump and briny mussels bathed in a fatty, porky mounted broth with Calabrian chili spice, sharp and tangy mustard, citrusy Peroni beer and the caramel sweetness of garlic and shallot. Solevo sausage, New England shellfish, Italian beer, Italian-American flavors… what a joy it is to watch people drink the broth directly from the pot.
I am flooded with memories of summer weekends spent wading in The Sound digging for clams and oysters, or time spent at my father’s apron strings as he ground fresh pork for sausage to be used in that weekend’s Sunday Sauce. Hyper-local scratch cooking before the concept was even part of the vocabulary of food. This approach to eating meant that, even in modest times, abundant convivial feasts were a part of the culture of our family. A steaming pot of mussels is exactly that. Dig in, soak up the broth with some crusty paisano bread, swig some Peroni and fall right into a round-the-table dance party.
Sonic dish, indeed!
Patrick, what does this dish sound like to you?
The track: The track I’ve chosen is “Su Casa, Mi Casa” by Felipe Gordon. You can find it on his Mi Casa, Su Casa EP released in 2018 on the UK label Quintessentials. Gordon is a Colombian DJ, producer and musician. His focus is mainly in the Deep House genre with many influences including Jazz, Hip-Hop and Electronic. Interestingly, he’s originally a drummer turned singer, with a degree in music theory and production. He records the instruments himself, including synths, bass, guitar and live drums.
The Sound: “Su Casa, Mi Casa” is a wonderful example of Gordon’s modern Jazzy touch on classic Deep House. It really compliments the aspects of the dish. The deep bass line, heavy kicks and spoken vocals add richness while the different melodies on keys and the syncopated tempo are the zing that carries and cuts through it all. The vibe is deep and it’s got spice. You can’t help but move with it. It’s a “quintessential” set opener. That’s how Zuppa di Cozze makes me feel and why I chose the track. Typically a starter, it’s a stimulating intro to any meal.
The Inspo: As a proud Italian American myself I’m familiar with Chef Ronnie’s variation and the track is inspired by that Italian American influence in the New Haven area. I wanted a track where the artist, like the Italians who settled there, created a fresh take on something classic. I also wanted to exemplify a track that was created similarly, with raw ingredients and a hands on approach. My grandparents had this groovy 1970s stereo system. I spent much of my youth there playing Jazz, Classical or Sinatra cassettes and usually there was the smell of Italian food in the background. Chef Ronnie’s story moved me to mirror that same connection, as the dish and the track bring me back to that place.
Listen to “Su Casa, Mi Casa” by Felipe Gordon
DJ Late Night Palace Born and raised in Albany, New York, musician and DJ Late Nite Palace (Patrick Cannizarro) has established himself as a serious selector of underground house music, particularly on vinyl. Largely influenced by jazz, as well as 90’s house and techno, he’s known for a unique sound touching on the deep, minimal and hypnotic aspects of electronic music. | IG: @latenightpalace
Chef Ronnie Solevo Solevo Kitchen in Saratoga Springs is owned and operated by fourth generation Italian-American Chef Ronald Solevo. Hailing from Southern Connecticut, Ronnie was raised in the restaurant business — learning at the apron strings of his parents and grandparents. After years refining his skills in Manhattan, Brooklyn and abroad, Chef Ronnie put roots down in his family’s favorite place: Saratoga Springs and the menu pays homage to recipes passed down through the family’s generations of Southern Italian Chefs and restaurant owners. | IG: @solevokitchen @soulevoh
Photo credits: Tommy Boy by Konrad Odhiambo/The Dishing. | DJ Ryan Parker: Provided.