BOTTLE CRUSH: ALIGOTÉ + The Case for a Classic Kir
This week’s wine pick is by Dominique De Vito, a former co-owner of Hudson-Chatham Winery in Ghent, NY, and current Manager and Wine Educator at Exit 9 Wine & Liquor Warehouse in Clifton Park.
THE MOOD: Summer
THE WINE: La Reine Pédauque Bourgogne Aligoté (AOP)
THE PRICE: $20
THE COCKTAIL: Kir
THE BACKSTORY: If you're new to Aligoté, you're in for a treat. Aligoté hails from Burgundy, where Chardonnay rules, but it has a loyal following. It dates back to the 17th century and, as a cross between Pinot Noir and Gouais Blanc, Aligoté produces light-bodied, high-acid wines with flavors of green apple, lemon, lime, pear and subtle mineral notes that deliver beautiful salinity.
While not nearly as prized in Burgundy as Chardonnay, Aligoté has its devotees. There's an association called Les Aligoteurs, formed in 2018, committed to elevating the grape's qualities to wine enthusiasts in France and around the world. It's working. Today, a bottle of Aligoté can fetch price points as high as a premier cru Chardonnay! Try it on its own, but even better, try making a kir…
WHAT’S A KIR? Kir is made with dry white wine and crème de cassis. It's classically French, so not just any dry white wine or cassis will do. The wine? Aligoté. The cassis? It has to be from France. (I've tried American variations, but none have the taste of cassis from Dijon.)
Whenever I'm in France—which isn't often enough—and I stop at a cafe for une boisson, I always order a kir. When it arrives, I feel a sense of joy reminiscent of meeting up with a long-lost friend. And like a chat with a good friend, the drink is completely satisfying from the first sip to the last.
THE BUILD: Chill the Aligoté and the Crème de Cassis. Pour .5 ounces of cassis into a wine glass. Add 4 ounces of Aligoté. Stir gently and enjoy. On its own. Savor every sip. Pretend you're in Paris. Pourquoi pas? Salut!
WHAT TO PAIR: Aligoté on its own is delicious and pairs wonderfully with fish, salads, and soft cheeses. A kir is enjoyable at any time of day.
[Ed. note: For those who might want to try something local, the Hudson Valley-made C. Cassis is a variation on blackcurrant crème de cassis, modified with mostly locally sourced botanicals. Read about C. Cassis owner Racheal Petach here.