MEET MANUELA MILAN VERA
From Uraguay to New York + France, pastry chef Manuela Milan Vera talks passion, pâtisserie + her first savory dish on Milas’ pass.
Interview: Susie Davidson Powell
Photos: Victoria Sedefian
Shoot location: Milas, Schenectady
Tastemaker: Manuela Milan Vera, pastry chef
Current Restaurant: Milas, Schenectady, N.Y.
Hometown: Pine Bush
Current city: Esperance
Personal style: Classic/edgy
Listening to: Billy Joel
Favorite spirit (or wine or non alc drink): Cabernet Sauvignon
Favorite classic cocktail (or non alc cocktail): Espresso martini
Favorite bar or venue ever: Sweet Linda
Biggest hospitality/pastry influences: Cedric Grolet
Industry trend that should end: That burnout equals dedication
The Dishing talks with tastemakers in the hospitality industry + trailblazers at the intersection of food, culture + art. Today we’re with talking with Manuela Milan Vera, a 21-year old pastry chef who moved to the U.S. from Uraguay, studied at the prestigious ’École Ducasse in France, and is creating beautiful pastries at Milas in Schenectady. Manuela (“Ella”) talks to The Dishing about creativity, rock climbing + the power of saying yes.
Thanks for talking with The Dishing! Ella, at just 21-years old, you are an incredibly young pastry chef already making your way in the industry. We’re going to talk about your career, but what is it about the art of pastry that you love so much?
What I love the most about pastry is its limitless creativity. Reshaping classic desserts into a magical fusion of flavors and textures that tells a different story to the people—pure edible artistry.
You were born in Montevideo, the capital of Uruguay, and moved to the U.S. at 13 years old, following your parents and brothers. What are some of your childhood memories of food?
The childhood memory that shaped me the most, was growing up with a house filled with the aroma of freshly baked cakes which led me into trying to bake as well. However my cakes would not rise and were given the name of “Peter Pan Cakes” by my dad since they just seemed to not want to grow up!
You have an artistic family: Your mother is a make-up artist in the fashion industry, your stepfather is a graphic designer, and I have seen the sketches you make before creating your desserts. Did you start sketching before you embarked on your culinary career, or was art a skill that you’ve used to refine your vision for desserts?
Yes, drawing and painting has always been something I was into from a very young age, and which later on I utilized as a skill to help me to illustrate my ideas into a more clear vision and allowing me to refine my creations.
Let’s talk about your path into pastry arts. You had an offer to attend the CIA but it was very expensive and you chose to enter the pastry program at SUNY Delhi. How did that experience lead you to France and studying at the famed École Ducasse?
While college life was certainly enjoyable, my first impression of pastry arts at SUNY Delhi was rather disappointing since I did not feel any sense of passion or enthusiasm in the department. My mother, one of my greatest supporters, urged me to see beyond the limitations I had put upon myself. She told me I should go learn what I love to its core, which we believed to be in France.
Was that nerve wracking to move to France at such a young age. Do you speak any French?
At 19-years old I was determined to chase my dreams into the unknown. Looking back, it was one of the scariest things I’ve ever done, having already experienced the transition of moving to a different country before, except this time I’d be alone. Without having any knowledge of French in me, I opted for the international program in the castle campus located in a small village, Yssingeaux, in south central France, since the programs taught in Paris were only available in French.
How did your experience at École Nationale Supérieure de Pâtisserie transform your idea of a career in pastry?
Pastry school in France opened my eyes to an entire universe of creative possibilities I never knew existed. What I once saw as simply baking transformed into a vast variety of artistic expression where sugar could be blown like glass, chocolate could be sculpted into architecture, and a single dessert could weave together flavors, textures, colors, and techniques in infinite combinations.
I felt like a little girl in a candy shop and I couldn’t get enough of it. The scope of what was possible felt limitless, and I realized I had barely scratched the surface of what this art could be. However, my body most definitely did not appreciate the amount of sugar as much as my brain did… (laughs)
After graduating from École Nationale Supérieure de Pâtisserie, you moved back to New York. Where did you work?
My professional chapter started at Mister Croissant, a small team, big expectations bakery-café in Middletown. That job taught me resilience and sharpened my skills under real-world pressure. From there, I transitioned to Patisserie Vanessa in New York City, where I worked on a larger production while still maintaining the French standards I'd been trained on. And then I moved back upstate to my parents’ home in Pine Bush and began to look for a place where I could create and Milas’ Restaurant was where it all clicked. I found myself working with a team that values innovation as much as tradition, where I can apply my French training while also experimenting with new concepts. It wasn't a straight line to get there, but every stop along the way was necessary.
What are the two desserts you made for our shoot?
The lemon panna cotta is topped with strawberry compote, accompanied by a silky basil syrup, and for final touches, strawberry powder, lemon gel, and dehydrated strawberries. Lastly it’s garnished with fresh strawberry segments, French meringue and micro basil.
The Marjolaine is a classic layered cake composed of jaconde sponge, hazelnut praline crunch, hazelnut diplomat cream, and dark chocolate glaze, topped with hazelnut cremeux, Oreo crumbs and served with chocolate gelato. The Marjolaine is a classic French execution that I reshaped into what I found most aesthetically and creatively appealing.
What is the most memorable dessert you have made to date?
I’d say this apple pavé with many layers of apple, but my personal favorite so far is this coffee entremet.
And you have your own side business called Ella’s Pastries, right? When did that start and is it still going?
Ella's Pastries started organically during the pandemic when friends or neighbors started requesting birthday cakes and weekend treats from my kitchen. What began as a side project quickly grew into something I couldn't ignore. It's my own creative playground, separate from my restaurant work, where I can experiment and connect directly with people who love my baking. I still take orders through my Instagram @ellas.pastries_. If you're local and looking for something special, I'd love to make it for you!
As you describe your path, you have an unusual degree of self-clarity about your future. Have you always had a sense of purpose?
I definitely did not always have this sense of purpose! If anything, I think it was a willingness to listen to myself, which is something my mother modeled for us constantly. She shaped us into dreamers who believed limitations were self-imposed and everything was possible. What looks like clarity is really just a mother who taught me to dream big, and a family who helped me notice what made my heart race.
That’s cool. I’d say most 21-year olds are either undergraduates or trying to figure out what they want to do, but you’ve gone all in, taking risks and pushing forward. What gives you that drive?
I think a lot of it comes down to saying yes to everything. Every opportunity, every challenge, every moment where I could've held back, I chose to lean in. At Milas, chefs constantly give the chance to create specials, and after presenting numerous dessert specials, I pitched my first savory dish for the line: Malfatti, soft spinach and ricotta cheese dumplings. That moment cracked something open for me. It wasn't just about pastry anymore, it was about creating without limits, evolving past the boundaries of what I thought I was supposed to do. That freedom keeps me hungry. Every new dish feels like proof that growth never stops if you're brave enough to reach for it.
How you create balance in your work/personal life?
Balance for me isn't about dividing my schedule, it's about feeding different parts of myself. Baking started during COVID as a way to cope, but it became something I genuinely needed. There's something therapeutic about working with your hands, about following a process from start to finish and ending with something beautiful. Painting outdoors and hiking, and occasionally rock climbing, give me the same reset, just vertically instead of in a kitchen. That's what balance means to me, not equal time, but equal presence.
I know from our earlier conversation that you have always looked for mentors or people who can teach you more. What is it about your position at Milas that feels different than other jobs?
What stands out to me most about working with this team is that I'm surrounded by true mentors, people who are genuinely invested in my growth, not just in my output. From day one, I've felt a sense of trust and respect that's hard to find elsewhere. They give me room to try new things and make mistakes without fear of harsh judgment. Beyond the mentorship, there's a real human connection; these relationships extend beyond work tasks into genuine friendship. That warmth and authenticity matters a lot to me because it shows I'm valued as a person, not just as an employee.
If friends came to visit you, where would be 3 spots where you’d take them in the Hudson Valley or Capital Region? We normally ask for breakfast, lunch and dinner, but maybe, for you, we should ask about places you love for pastries?
I don’t go out as much as I should but I’d probably recommend Bear’s Cup Bakehouse for breakfast, The Scene for a nice brunch, and, of course, Milas Restaurant and Bar for dinner.
If you could go anywhere in the world with no limits on costs or reservations, where would you go?
Definitely Greece! Anywhere fancy near the water.
What’s next? Where do you see yourself in 5 years?
Life has taught me that paths are rarely predictable, but I do have clear intentions. I plan to pursue masterclasses annually, like one I'm joining back at École Nationale Supérieure de Pâtisserie in France this September, and eventually even compete to challenge my craft. For me, growth isn't optional. Five years from now, I want to look back on a period of deep learning and continuous improvement, wherever that takes me geographically.
Thanks for talking to The Dishing, Ella! We are going to be waiting for you to get back from France so we can see what else you create!