MEET: CHEESECAKE MACHISMO Lynn Beaumont + Bam Lynch on love, community + staying punk
Lynn Beaumont + Bam Lynch talk 23 years of cheesecake innovation, tattoos, global community + being an Albany recognizable icon.
Interview : Susie Davidson Powell
Photos: Victoria Sedefian/The Dishing
Location: Cheesecake Machismo, Albany, N.Y.
Tastemaker Names: Lynn Beaumont + Bam Lynch | IG: @machiscake | IG: @bam_alamadingdong
Current Project/Business: Cheesecake Machismo IG: @cheesecakemachismo
Hometown: LB: Canastota NY | BL: Goshen NY
Current city: Albany, NY
Personal style: LB: Ekologic, Carhartt, Levi's, Champion | BL: Jeans and T-shirt
Listening to: LB: 80's & 90's-Old School R&B/Hip-Hop and Alternative | BL: assorted classic punk
Favorite classic cocktail or non-alc drink: LB: seltzer with Guava | BL: beer and water
Coffee or tea – and what’s your order: LB: black coffee all day. But I do like tea and trying different lattes when out. | BL: black coffee.
Biggest professional industry influence(s): LB: various IG ice cream/bakery/restaurant accounts I follow. | BL: Anthony Bourdain
Industry trend that should end: LB & BL: 3rd party delivery!
Welcome to The Dishing’s Quick Serve interviews where we talk with tastemakers in the hospitality industry and trailblazers at the intersection of food, culture and art. Today, we’re talking with Lynn Beaumont and Bam Lynch, founders of Cheesecake Machismo, an internationally-famed bakery in Albany’s Center Square acclaimed for their small batch, award-winning cheesecakes in eclectic flavors and a no pre-order, walk-in-only policy. Lynn co-founded Bomber’s Burrito Bar with Matt Baumgarter before joining Bam Lynch full-time in cheesecake production. The pair have just celebrated their 20th anniversary of the brick and mortar being open to the public and 23 years making and selling cheesecake.
Thanks for talking with The Dishing! Your little bakeshop on Hamilton Street is filled with a phenomenal mix of ephemera, art, comics and collectibles accumulated over 20+ years. Who’s behind the collection + what are your favorite collectible pieces?
Both of us are collectors. Andy Warhol let everybody know that there is art in everyday products. We find art in the toys and the nostalgia of the toys. The decor is simply things we like. A favorite is The Ramones Pin Head figures and The Rocky Horror Picture Show poster that Barry Bostwick signed and gave us. And the Rocky Horror pottery lips he made for us. We spent time backstage with him and it was a blast! We also love art by local artists. The Cross Dressing Prince Adam action figure is probably the most photographed.
Cheesecake Machismo is about as iconic and well known as Albany’s RCA dog, The Egg + original Jack’s Oyster House. You have a world map on the wall covered with pins representing places your customers have traveled from to try your cheesecake. How did this come about?
We started noticing a lot of accents and would ask people what brings them to Albany. There’s a wide range of answers, and it's so fun to meet people from all over the world in our own house. After winning the title of Best Cheesecake in NYS in 2017 we got a citation from the NYS Assembly and a Proclamation from the Mayor giving us Cheesecake Machismo Day in the City of Albany on June 30th— many travelers literally come to Albany just to try our cheesecake! We put up the world map to document visitors and its a fun activity for them to pin the map. We have a couple that drives 2 to 4 times a year from Montréal just for cheesecake. During the pandemic a guy flew from Florida to get his son a birthday Frankencake and flew right back. People change their vacation plans and even honeymoons based on our open hours. It's so sweet. Our cake is so special to them and is part of their lasting memory of specific occasions.
We have actually known each other since the mid-nineties, before Cheesecake Machismo was born. Bam was the chef of the Lionheart on Lark Street where I was a cocktail waitress before Lynn and Matt Baumgartner turned it into the first Bombers. I remember when you guys returned from a few months in Charlotte, North Carolina, when Bam joined Lark Street Tattoo as a shop manager and Lynn, who’d sold her interest in Bomber’s, worked as a bartender and part-time waitress at Mama Rosa’s Italian restaurant on Lark. This was the moment in time when Bam’s cheesecake came into play. Can you tell us the backstory of how Cheesecake Machismo was born?
Bam was dabbling in making cheesecakes here and there. There was a party at Café Hollywood to celebrate the opening of the piercing shop, Viva Lark Vegas. Bam decided to make a Caramel Toffee cheesecake to bring for Rebecca the owner and after trying it the owners of Mama Rosa’s asked if we'd be willing to make cheesecakes for them to sell as dessert. Drue and Mirriam were friends of ours, so of course we said yes. Two weeks later, Laura from Savannah’s found out and said, “If you're selling to them, could you sell to me too?” We said sure. About a month later, Ryan Weber called and said he was managing two restaurants on Lark under new ownership and wanted to get us in from the beginning. That was great. When the 5th restaurant called, we were like—there really seems to be a need for this! We should go all in or stop because it's too much.
In the meantime, I started waitressing at Mama Rosa’s and saw people losing their minds over our cheesecake. Bam was managing Lark Tattoo for T-Bone and working all day then coming home making cheesecakes until 3 in the morning. We realized this could really be something and started renting our space on Hamilton probably like a year later. We kept working jobs and putting all the cake money back into itself. We were able to transition to full-time caking and open the shop to the public about 2 and a half years later. When Bam told the tattoo shop that he was leaving to open a bakery- they were joking around poking fun at him like—”what is it going to be some kind of macho bakery?”...hence the name Cheesecake Machismo!
Given your backgrounds, you might not thought you’d end up in cheesecake production! Lynn, you studied philosophy at Union College and Bam, you came to Albany (after working at the infamously unsafe Action Theme Park in Vernon, NJ!) and studied environmental science at HVCC. Neither of you had formal culinary training but Bam was hired to cook at the Lionheart, followed by The Big House, and of course Lynn was slinging burritos with the launch of Bombers! You’ve now been baking cheesecake together for 23 years, literally day in and day out. Did you fall in love with each other and cheesecake and never look back?
Yeah, pretty much! We worked in the kitchen at Bombers for 3.5 years together before we became a couple. We mesh very well together in the kitchen. There are other food items we would obsess over, perfect, and move on. Bam’s love language is cooking. There's a little girl neighbor who started coming into the shop when she was 2-years old. When she was 10 or so, we gave her a certificate awarding her the Oldest Youngest Customer. A few years ago we were invited to her High School Graduation party. It was so heartwarming. On the table were all her achievements, diploma, college acceptance letters and our framed certificate! We have watched children grow up, graduate high school and college, get married and have children of their own. It's amazing to be there for them. We’ve had a proposal in the shop! We have so many incredible heartwarming stories, it can really be emotionally overwhelming. It feels great to be a consistent part of people's lives. Just when they want a treat, for celebrations, good times and bad, comfort in times of loss or tragedy. Food is an emotional thing. We truly put love into what we do and whether it's a one time slice or regular customer, they're going to feel it.
Let’s talk specifically about your cheesecake. How do you describe it and what’s the magic ingredient. Do you have a favorite cream cheese?
Honestly, we call it our own style. Philadelphia has a higher butterfat content. Other ones are too watery. We have tried local products and it's a whole different thing. There's just nothing comparable to Philly.
Bam was inspired by a specific cheesecake design at The Big House. By now you have made over 750 flavors – and you’re famous for your frankencake, a mix of 12 mixed slices. What was the first flavor you made and what’s your best seller?
The first one Bam ever made was a Hazelnut flavor with a chocolate design baked into the top. The flavor that set it all off was Caramel Toffee. Caramel Toffee is the all time biggest seller. Salted Caramel Brownie is currently the most popular. But some other flavors like Green Tea with chocolate and Miso Maple Pecan have a cult like following.
We sometimes draw inspiration from friends and artists—Biscotti Mac, Cookie McCormick, Chocolate Chip Fasciana, Eat the Ritz, Bananas Betsey, Cookies Riley, PB &J-Ellie, Whiskey Sour's Easter Bonnet, Frieda Munchon. And sometimes politicians—Spitzer's #9 Big Apple Tart.
What do you each think are the 3 most outlandish creations you have made? Is there a favorite?
Tandoori Spiced Cheesecake was the craziest. If Bam gets an idea in his head, he has to make it to see how it is! Chupacabra was a 7-layer monster. Ron Mexico was a savory cheesecake on a pepper jack polenta bottom, queso fresco and cream cheese flavored with El Mariachi's salsa. Heat it up and eat warm with chips!
BL: My favorite is Butter Rum Apple.
LB: Mine is Blueberry Maple.
Bam, is it true you don’t write your recipes down? How do you remember them if presumably each recipe differs in a certain way?
Nothing is written down. Lynn makes all the crusts and I make all the batters. We both bake and decorate them. It's all made to texture- crusts and cakes. There's a specific jiggle to tell when the cake is done. Different flavors using different ingredients will make a batter thicker, wetter, or sweeter. So I look for a specific consistency of batter or add less sugar if something sweeter is going in. It's not like remembering hundreds of recipes—it's paying attention to detail in every single batch cake we make. It's not so much that I have to remember every recipe, it's just that I know how I would do it. Every batter is made single batch, there isn't a base recipe that you just add ingredients to. It doesn't really work that way.
You’re self-described “lovers of punk, art and simple living” which tracks! You’re both incredibly artistic and have many tattoos (which we’ll get to in a bit.) You have clear, no-nonsense rules about first come/first served, no pre-orders, and closing when you sell out, but you also come across as two really steady, happy people who love what you do. What have been some of the high points and low points of running your business over the years?
The high point is getting and remaining named the Best Cheesecake in all of New York State. We also loved being on stage with Barry Bostwick for a cheesecake eating contest with 2 cakes we named after him at a Rocky Horror Show. The low point was the flood from a burst pipe upstairs. Luckily the flood didn't destroy the Pee-Wee Herman's Play Set or the Hooker Convention poster!
I often ask people how they manage the work/life balance; how they rest or manage their health and mental health. You two work together every day in a small shop and go home just up the road. What’s the secret?
LB: I mean, it's not easy. Neither of us really have that much down time. We each have our own chill out spaces. I like to go for walks that usually involve hitting a café. I connect with my friends family to stay grounded.
BL: I try to relax by playing guitar and drums, reading and crosswords. I also like to cook at home. As we're doing this I am making chicken wings and stromboli!
Tattoos are woven into your backstory + logo. Who designed your original pin up logo and current skull and whisk beaters logos?
Chris DeBarge drew the original pin up girl logo. Most people don't realize that pin up girls were called Cheesecake in the early 20th Century. Brian Kimball drew the skull and cross beaters. He also drew the Eat the Rich knuckles logo. Chris and Brian both own their own tattoo shops. Phil Montelone and Nic Hansen have helped tightening up the logo for graphic design merch and ads.
You have art work and fridge magnets with Eat The Rich and Bam has it tattooed across his knuckles! What’s the story, and given the current climate, should we eat the rich?
The Eat the Rich describes the cheesecake, but I betcha billionaires are tasty though! 😉 We love a good double entendre.
Do you each have a favorite tattoo or a your favorite tattoo on each other?
LB: I often forget about the bull horns I have across my shoulder blades, because I don't see them. But it's my favorite. It was my first tattoo in 1999, T-Bone at Lark Tattoo did it. It's a symbol of strength and perseverance and reminds me that I can get through anything and to always push forward. My favorite on Bam is probably his Eat the Rich knuckles tattoos. He says it's not political, but it 100% is!
BL: My favorite is the one I just got by Stacey Martin. It's a spaceship and a robot. My favorite on Lynn is her snowflake on the back of neck. Kara Kniffen did it about 13 years ago.
Do you each have childhood memories of cooking at home or dining out?
Proof of Lynn licking the beaters! Photo provided.
LB: I remember getting to lick the beaters when my Mom was baking something. There's a classic family photo of me doing that. We always had a large garden and would help pick and clean vegetables. It's crazy to me that people don't know how much better fresh vegetables/fruit picked off the vine are. I also loved when I would get to make the salad for dinner as a kid- I would pretend I was on a PBS instructuonal cooking show.
BL: Well I always had to cook for myself because nobody was home. I do remember the first time I ever had cheesecake: My dad gave me a bite of his and I knew it was something special. I was probably like 7. And when I was about 13 I told my Mom I wanted to be a chef. She took me to The Culinary Institute of America Restaurants and I chose the French restaurant. I ordered the pork tenderloin with plum sauce and it was delicious. I have tried to recreate it a couple times throughout the years.
Bam, you’re a champion footbag player! I saw people playing footbag - or what I was told was hackey-sack - for the first time ever in the late nineties in Albany’s Washington Park. How and when did you become a champion?
Um, lol, I was in a lot of tournaments and I guess in ‘95 I got 2nd place in the East Coast Championship. That was the best I ever did.
When you go out or have friends visiting, where are 3 of your favorite spots to go for breakfast, lunch or dinner?
For breakfast, the Iron Gate Cafe is always solid and walking there is a great way to show off the neighborhood.
For lunch, Andy's Subs (RIP.)
For dinner Café Capriccio. Wherever chef Ian Brower is cooking!
Think about an ideal day or night out whether kicking back or going for drinks and dinner. If you could go anywhere in the world with no limits on costs and reservations already made, where would it be?
BL: I would go to Vienna just because I watch so many food travel shows. Looks like there's so much great food and art all over the city.
LB: I'd be right there with him!
You have a sign on the wall that says, “A Great City Is Judged on How It Receives Its Visitors.” Clearly, you’re part of Albany’s welcoming committee for many visitors. What does this mean for you?
It's really incredible, the people we meet. They genuinely remember our hospitality and how our cheesecake makes them feel. There have been several occasions where we meet people who are going to be moving here and they ask us where to look for apartments. We become a parental figure, a safe space for our community. A lovely couple came here a few years ago looking to move to either Albany, Glens Falls or Hudson. They chose Center Square. They would check in frequently. They had to move to Chicago recently, but sent us a Christmas card updating us on their lives. We also get Christmas cards from the Montréal customers. It's very meaningful to know that visitors hold a special place for Albany because of the experience they have with us. We're proud to represent this city and leave such a good taste in people's mouths who come here.
Thanks so much for chatting with us. Congrats on 23 years and here’s to many more. Also, we can’t get enough of the scented air in your shop. (Maybe you can start selling Cheesecake Machismo candles?!)